Rolex is hailed as an icon of precision, innovation and luxury. The Swiss powerhouse boasts an illustrious range of iconic models, each known for their unparalleled craftsmanship and design. But if we were to choose the quintessential Rolex – it’s undoubtedly the ‘Datejust’.
While it doesn’t have a cult following like the Rolex Submariner or the Rolex Daytona, it’s impossible to underpin Rolex’s impact on the world of watchmaking without highlighting the iconic Datejust. For over 75 years, it has been Rolex’s most popular model, earning the admiration of collectors and enthusiasts alike. That’s the beauty of the ‘Datejust’ – timeless, cherished and universally acknowledged.
Anyone who appreciates Rolex will agree that the Datejust is a testament to the brand’s storied legacy and is worth having!
Join us as we explore everything that makes the Datejust a quintessential Rolex while getting to know its history and the many options available to you.
Story Of The Rolex Datejust
In 1945, Rolex introduced the Datejust to celebrate the brand’s 40th anniversary. It was a revolutionary moment in watchmaking history, as the Rolex Datejust was the first watch to display the date on the watch dial at the 3 o’clock position. Hence, the name “Date”-just represents this innovative feature of an automatically changing date display. The date transitions smoothly at midnight without the need for manual adjustment.
It was also one of the first watches to incorporate a magnification feature, the famous Rolex Cyclops lens above the date window to enhance legibility. Although this may seem like a common functionality now, Datejust set the standard for how a date complication should work on a wristwatch.
Unlike many of Rolex’s other legendary pieces, the Datejust was not created with a particular purpose in mind but was designed as a classic and reliable timepiece that could be worn daily and throughout various activities.
Key Features Defining The Rolex Datejust
The Datejust is the brand’s most varied collection, with plenty of metals, sizes, textures, and dial colours available. Yet, thanks to its iconic look, the watch is always instantly recognisable.
While Rolex has updated the model over the decades, a few core components remain the same. They are:
- Oyster Case
The Oyster was Rolex’s first waterproof case for wristwatches in 1926. Rolex crafts each Datejust model with an Oyster case, ensuring the watches are highly robust, water-resistant, durable, and precise.
- Date Window with Cyclops Lens
The primary distinguishing feature of the Rolex Datejust from other models is the prominent date aperture at 3 o’clock. With the instantaneous date mechanism, allowing the date to change automatically at midnight, and the Cyclops magnification lens, which magnifies the date by 2.5 times, the Rolex Datejust set the standard for how date complications should look and function in a wristwatch.
- Fluted or Smooth Bezel
The Rolex Datejust is not a purpose-built model but a watch designed for everyday life. Therefore, the watches, with the exception of Turn-O-Graph models, come with decorative bezels instead of functional ones. While the classic Datejust models have a smooth bezel, the two-tone models have fluted gold bezels. Also, there are bezels decorated with sapphires and diamonds.
- Jubilee or Oyster Bracelet
Rolex introduced the iconic Jubilee bracelet for the Rolex Datejust in 1945, which is still an option in today’s catalogue. The Jubilee bracelet has rounded five-piece links and is fitted with a concealed Crownclasp, whereas the Oyster bracelet has flat, three-piece links and is paired with the Oysterclasp.
Important Rolex Datejust Milestones
1945 – Rolex designs the Datejust model in 36mm to celebrate the brand’s 40th anniversary. It features an automatically changing date mechanism and comes fitted with a new type of bracelet – the jubilee.
1953—Rolex adds a Cyclops magnification lens above the date window for enhanced legibility. Rolex also introduced the Turn-O-Graph Datejust, featuring a rotating bezel for easy elapsed time measurement.
1957 – Rolex made the date complication in Datejust instantaneous and also introduced the Rolex Lady Datejust for women.
In the 1960s – The brand released midsized Datejust models, measuring 31mm, which sit comfortably between the men’s Datejust and the Lady Datejust.
1977—Rolex created its quartz movement, the Oysterquartz, to respond to the growing popularity of Japanese quartz watches.
1988 – The Datejust was updated with sapphire crystal.
2009—For the first time since its debut, the Datejust was given a case larger than 36mm. The Datejust II was introduced with a 41mm case size.
2015—Rolex increased the size of the Lady Datejust models from 26mm to 28mm to accommodate the preference for larger watches.
2016—Rolex discontinued the Datejust II and replaced it with the Datejust 41, which has proportions closer to the classic Datejust.
2019 – Rolex released the new generation Datejust 36.
Reasons That Make The Datejust So Popular
The allure of the Datejust extends beyond timekeeping. It serves as an essential companion for any occasion and is considered the archetype of all Rolex watches – for good reasons.
- Versatile
Encased in the iconic Oyster case, the Datejust was the first self-winding wrist piece featuring a date window on the dial. Additionally, Rolex magnified the date with a Cyclops lens for increased legibility. This unique blend of functionality and elegance cements Datejust’s status as a symbol of innovation and prestige, appealing to a diverse audience base.
- Ultimate Precision
The new-generation Rolex Datejust features the Calibre 3235, a self-winding mechanical movement that delivers superior power reserve, anti-magnetism, accuracy, and shock resistance. The watches also have a Superlative Chronometer certification that underscores their exceptional timekeeping abilities.
- Timeless Aesthetics
The classic proportion, minimalistic dial, and clean lines contribute to the timeless aesthetic of the Rolex Datejust models. The appearance is further enhanced by the sturdy Oyster casing and the Jubilee bracelet, which complements any style, making it a staple for formal as well as leisure meetings.
- Wide Range of Choices
Rolex offers the Datejust collection in a mind-blowing range of case sizes, bezel designs, dials and bracelet options, ensuring there’s a fit for everyone. From simple to elaborate designs and gem-set models, the Datejust collection spoils buyers with its umpteen options. Not to exaggerate, but there’s actually a Datejust for every taste, preference, and style. You can also customise Datejust watches to suit individual tastes and preferences.
- Symbol of prestige
The Rolex Datejust has been worn by world leaders, celebrities, influential professionals, and enthusiasts, making it a symbol of achievement and prestige. The watch’s easily recognisable design serves as a powerful symbol of social status and achievement.
- Value Retention
As one of Rolex’s most enduring models, the Datejust enjoys high popularity and has a strong resale value. Since the 1990s, the value of a Datejust has increased by almost 200%. Boasting an instantly recognisable design, the watches have a great heritage and will obtain excellent figures upon resale. It is advisable to pick the rarer or vintage Datejust models for the best returns.
Rolex Datejust Watch Options
Being one of the oldest Rolex models, you can well imagine the incredible legacy of this collection, with so many incredible styles to choose from. Its extensive variety allows wearers to find a model that suits their personality and style perfectly.
The Datejust watches are available in several variations. Below, we’ve listed the size, material, bezel and bracelet variations.
- SIZES
- Lady Datejust 26mm (discontinued)
- Lady Datejust 28mm
- Datejust 31mm
- Datejust II 41mm (discontinued)
- Datejust 41
However, only four sizes are available in Rolex’s current catalogue: Datejust 31mm, Datejust 36mm, Datejust 41mm, and Lady Datejust 28mm.
MATERIALS
- Stainless steel
- 18ct Yellow Gold
- 18ct White Gold
- 18ct Everose Gold
- Yellow Rolesor (two-tone yellow gold & stainless steel)
- Everose Rolesor (two-tone rose gold & stainless steel)
- White Rolesor (stainless steel with an 18ct white gold bezel)
- Gem-set
- Platinum (only Lady Datejust and midsize Datejust models)
BEZEL
- Fluted
- Smooth
- Gem-set
- Turn-O-Graph (discontinued)
- Engine-turned (discontinued)
BRACELET
- Oyster bracelet
- Jubilee bracelet
- President bracelet (limited to midsize Datejust and Lady Datejust models)
- Leather straps (discontinued)
- Integrated Oyster bracelet (discontinued)
- Integrated Jubilee bracelet (exclusive to Oysterquartz)
DIAL
Multiple Options Available
Evolution Of The Datejust Movement
Similar to the other aspects, the watch’s mechanism also received frequent updates throughout the decades as Rolex continuously worked to refine and improve the workings of its iconic Datejust designs.
Calibres in Lady-Datejust and Midsize Datejust watches:-
Due to their similar sizes, the Lady-Datejust and midsize Datejust models share the same movement types.
- Calibre 1135 in 1957
- Calibre 1166 in 1967
- Calibre 2035 in 1970
- Calibre 2135 with quickset date mechanism in 1983
- Calibre 2236 in 2015, complete with antimagnetic Syloxi hairspring
Calibres in Men’s Rolex Datejust watches:-
- Calibre 740 in 1945
- Calibre 1065 with instantaneous date change in 1957
- Calibre 1560 in 1959
- Calibre 1570 in 1965
- Calibre 1570 with hacking in 1972 (hacking is a common term used to describe the second hand coming to a full halt when you pull out the winding crown to set the time).
- Calibre 3035 with quickset date function in 1977
- Calibre 5035 quartz movement in 1977
- Calibre 3135 in 1988
- Calibre 3136 for Datejust II in 2009
- Calibre 3235 for Datejust 41 in 2016
- Calibre 3235 for Datejust 36 in 2018
Rolex Datejust References Over The Generations
The Rolex Datejust has a long and remarkable history, and over time, it has evolved to become a favourite among connoisseurs.
Below are the various generations of Datejust watches and their unique features.
1. 4-Digit Datejust References
Period: 1940s to 1950s
Reference Numbers: 4xxx, 5xxx, 61xx and 63xx
Movement: Automatic movement, Calibre 740
Characteristics:
- 36mm case size
- Domed case backs called ‘bubble backs’ to accommodate the movement
- Dials did not bear the name DATEJUST until 1957
- Date wheel with alternating red and black numerals, known as ‘Roulette’
- Non quickset date
- Acrylic Crystal
- Progressive date change mechanism
- Radium lume
- Some with Cyclops lens and some without
Period: 1960s
Reference Numbers: 66xx (Example, Ref. 6604 & Ref. 6605)
Movement: Automatic movement, Calibre 1065
Characteristics:
- 36mm case size
- Instantaneous date change mechanism
- Flat case back
- Non-quickset date
- Acrylic Crystal with Cyclops lens
- Dial with the name DATEJUST
- Radium lume
Period: 1959 – 1977
Reference Numbers: 16xx (some of the most popular & affordable vintage Datejust models available on the market today)
Movement: Automatic movement, Calibre 1560 or 1570
Characteristics:
- 36mm case size
- Comes with a new movement type with models made from 1972 onwards featuring the hacking function, allowing one to set a watch’s second hand together with the hours and minutes.
- Radium lume was replaced by tritium in 1963
- Non-quickset date
- Acrylic crystal with Cyclops lens
2. 5-Digit Datejust References
Period: 1977- 1987
References: 160xx
Movement: Automatic movement, Calibre 3035
Characteristics:
- 36mm case diameter
- The quickset date function ensures the user can independently adjust the date display without changing the time-displaying hands.
- Acrylic Crystal with Cyclops lens
- Tritium lume
Period: 1977 to 2000s (Oysterquartz Datejust)
References: 17xxx, 190xx, 191xx
Movement: Quartz movement, Calibre 5035
Characteristics:
- Released during the Quartz crisis, the Oysterquartz Datejust references sported fashionable 36mm angular cases.
- New scratch-resistant Sapphire crystals with Cyclops lens
- Quickset date
- Hacking seconds
- Early examples with tritium lume and models made from the mid-1990s onwards have LumiNova lume
- Integrated Oyster or Jubilee bracelets
Period: 1988 to mid 2000s
References: 162xx
Movement: Automatic movement, Calibre 3135
Characteristics:
- Rolex started using 904L stainless steel for some references
- Tritium lume was replaced by LumiNova in the late 1990s, which was again upgraded to Super-LumiNov in the 2000s.
- New Calibre 3135 movement
- Sapphire crystal with Cyclops lens
3. 6-Digit Datejust References
Period: 2000s to 2009
References: 1162xx
Movement: Automatic movement, Calibre 3135
Characteristics:
- The arrival of redesigned Datejust 36mm cases in the mid-2000s with thicker lugs and updated bracelets
- Quickset date
- Super LumiNova lume
- Sapphire Crystal with Cyclops
Period: 2009 to 2015 (Rolex Datejust II)
References: 1163xx
Movement: Automatic movement, Calibre 3136
Characteristics:
- Introduction of the Datejust II with 41mm case in 2009
- Thicker lugs and a wider bezel
- Quickset date
- A combination of green Super LumiNova and blue Chromalight lume
- Sapphire Crystal with Cyclops
- Only Oyster bracelet
Period: 2016 to Present
References: 1263xx
Movement: Automatic movement, Calibre 3235
Characteristics:
- Rolex discontinued the Datejust II in 2016 to release the Datejust 41
- Fitted with new-generation movement
- Quickset date
- Sapphire Crystal with Cyclops
- 72-hour power reserve
- Chromalight lume
- Available in Oyster and Jubilee bracelets
Period: 2018 to Present
References: 1262xx
Movement: Automatic movement, Calibre 3235
Characteristics:
- 36 case size with redesigned sides and lugs
- Easylink clasp Quickset date
- New-generation calibre 3235
- 70-hour power reserve
- Sapphire Crystal
- Chromalight lume that glows in the dark
- 2 times more accurate than an officially certified chronometer, offering an accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day
Best-Selling Rolex Datejust Models
Below, we have picked a few most popular Datejust watches from the heap of models available. If you’re looking to buy a Datejust today, these are the models you must consider adding to your collection, guaranteeing performance and style.
1. Rolex Datejust 41 ‘Wimbledon’ Ref. 126331
Rolex has been the official timekeeper of Wimbledon since 1978 and retains this title and strong correlation even today. The first Rolex to receive the Wimbledon nickname was Ref. 116333 in 2019, but Rolex never really confirmed it. Now, quite a few references hold the Wimbledon title, from 116234 to 126331.
Here, we’re talking about the famous Ref. 126331 made from 18ct Everose gold and Oyster stainless steel. The watch comes in a beautiful two-tone case fitted with a fluted bezel. The dial has a stunning slate grey background embracing a sunray finish, and the Wimbledon theme remains highlighted with the Roman numeral hour markers. The markers have a green edging, resembling the colour scheme of the event and Rolex’s logo. There’s a date at 3 o’clock and a large baton at 9 o’clock. Fitted with an ultra-stylish Jubilee bracelet, this classic timepiece enjoys great demand among buyers of all generations.
2. Rolex Datejust 36, Ref. 126234
If you want your Datejust to have a silvery sheen, the 36mm Rolex Datejust 126234 is the piece you’d like to pick. It combines luxury and durability in a genuinely seamless way and looks fantastic on the wrist. The model combines Oyster stainless steel and 18ct white gold, giving you the best of both worlds. The bezel is fluted in gold and beautifully complements the bright ocean-hued blue dial with a fluted motif. The dial has a sunray finish, and the baton markers are either diamond-set or made of white gold.
The watch is locked in with a stylish jubilee bracelet celebrating the Datejust collection’s strong dose of effortless charm and luxury. Inside, you have the most efficient Calibre 3235, offering an accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day and supporting the Parachrom hairspring and the Paraflex shock absorbers. The Ref. 126234 is not simply a sports watch but a very robust dressy watch.
3. Rolex Datejust 31. Ref. 278288RBR
If you have a slender wrist and do not mind drawing attention, the Rolex Datejust 31mm Ref. 278288RBR is the ultimate pick for you. The entire Datejust collection is brimming with statement pieces, but this timepiece styles yellow gold most alluringly.
The dazzling gem-set bezel draws your eyes in an instant as Rolex undergoes a meticulous gem-setting process to make it appear like a work of art. The new olive green dial looks ethereal with the floral style motif, further enhanced by diamonds of various sizes at the centre of each flower.
Unlike others, the dial here combines three types of finish: matte, sunray and grained. So, you can well evaluate the extensive skill and craftsmanship that went into making this timepiece. That’s not all. We implore you to cast your eyes on the bracelet. The prestigious President bracelet makes the watch appear even more luxurious as if it wasn’t already enough.
4. Rolex Datejust, Ref. 126334
We’re wrapping up the list with a modern classic featuring everything that makes the Datejust special. There’s an elegant 41mm Oyster steel case, the archetypal 18ct white gold fluted bezel that not only looks luxurious but also offers a water resistance of 100 metres, a stunning black dial featuring white hour markers, and a Jubilee bracelet. You can also find it in an Oyster bracelet. On the inside, the watch is powered by the Calibre 3235, providing a 70-hour power reserve.
The Datejust 126334 appeals to a broader audience for its understated elegance and versatile style. Although similar to other Datejust models, the 126334 stands out with its distinctive dial options. It is the perfect everyday watch that also dresses up perfectly for evening wear.
BOTTOM LINE..
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust is a testament to the brand’s horological excellence and refined design. It’s simple and elegant aesthetics and ability to adapt to trends and tastes make it desirable and popular among collectors and enthusiasts alike.
When you buy a Rolex Datejust, you invest in a high-quality piece designed and built to last. And, with so many models available in a wide range of materials and metals, with different features and details, it couldn’t be easier to find your perfect Rolex. It doesn’t require a crystal ball to understand why so many people have chosen the Rolex Datejust as their everyday companion.
